画家 杨云 Painter Yang Yun
九月的藏地满目金黄，青稞熟了，正是收割的季节。
一直想亲历青稞收割的愿望终于成行。
四川阿坝藏族羌族自治州的阿坝县，地处川、甘、青三省的交汇之地；是一个偏远的小城，以盛产青稞出名。
In September, the Tibetan land is covered with the color gold. The hulless barley is ripe, just the time for harvest.
My dream to experience the event in-person has finally come true.
Aba County in the Ngawa Tibetan and Qiang Autonomous Prefecture of Sichuan is located at the cross point of Sichuan, Gansu, and Qinghai; it is a secluded small town that is famous for the producing of hulless barley.
一出阿坝镇区，一望无际的黄色青稞与天相接，散布在原野里身着鲜艳藏装忙碌收割的妇女们构成一道亮丽的风景；阳光下的女人们或裹着漂亮的头巾、或戴着各式的遮阳帽，腰系围裙，臂带袖套，一字排开收割青稞。时而阵阵欢笑回荡在田间地角，孩子们三五成群奔跑追逐，惊起群群飞鸟，好一派欢乐繁忙的丰收景象。
Once I stepped out of the town of Aba, what I saw was the endless yellow barley that connects with the sky. The scattered women in colorful Tibetan customs on the field formed a beautiful view. Under the sun, they were either wrapped in pretty headscarves, or in various kinds of sun hats. Aprons were tied at the waists, and the arms were wrapped with oversleeves while they lined up to harvest. Sometimes, bursts of laughter reverberated on fields, and the children chased in groups of three to five, shocking the flocks of birds, creating a happy and busy harvest scene.
身临青稞的收割，不免想起当年知青麦收的情景：一行收割下来，弯曲的腰不得伸直，疼痛难忍，只得仰面麦田，方觉片刻舒缓。
While I was cutting the barley, I recalled the memories of the times when I was harvesting wheat as an educated youth: after reaping a row, the bent back was so painful that I cannot stand straight. Only when I faced the field, did I feel some relief.
日落时分，从田间通往村庄的路上，满是背负大捆青稞的妇女和驮着青稞的牛群排成的长队，尤为壮观，使这座冷清的小城一时热闹起来……
At sunset, the road from the field to the village was filled with large teams of women and herds, all carrying large bundles of barley, which is very impressive, making the deserted small town suddenly lively...
我伴随人群来到村头，到处矗立着青稞架起的巨大垛堆夯土筑成的独特民居屋顶是堆满青稞的晒场。从田间运回的青稞正一捆捆被人抛向屋顶晾晒，伴随着欢声笑语。人们沉醉在丰收的喜悦之中。
I came to the front of the village with the others, where a lot of the barley is being dried on the unique rooftops. Bundles of the freshly harvested crop were tossed up to the roof for drying. Along with chats and laughter, people intoxicate in happiness.
在一户藏家的门前，我与一位正在换马掌的壮年男子交谈，提到我的疑问：为什么田间地头见不到男子收割？汉子的回答简单明确：女人持家是祖辈的习俗，从来都如此。我递上香烟，为汉子点燃火，就青稞的话题聊了起来：
古老的藏族谚语说青稞的叶子是绿色的珊瑚，青稞的穗子是黄色的珍珠。民间因青稞留下了许多动人的故事。
远古的藏区一遍洪荒，五谷不生，人畜难存，魔王霸占了青稞的种子。一位年轻的王子为了拯救苦难的众生，潜入魔宫偷出一袋种子，不幸被魔王发现，施魔法将王子变成了一头牦牛。但勇敢的牦牛王子跋山涉水，历经苦难，坚持把青稞种子带给了藏民，才有了今天遍布高原的青稞，使众生得以生存。
In front of the door of a Tibetan house, I asked a man who was changing the horseshoes: why aren't men harvesting on the field? He answered me concisely: it is the tradition for women to take care of the house, it has always been like this. I lighted the cigarette for the man, and started the conversation on hulless barley:
In the old Tibetan proverb, the leaves of hulless barley are green corals, and the tassels are yellow pearls. Many touching stories were left in the folk about barley.
The ancient Tibetan area was a plain of uncultivated land, there were no crops, and both humans and animals suffered to survive. These were all because of the devil, who held all the seeds of the barley. In order to save the suffering beings, a young prince sneaked into the magic palace and stole a bag of seeds. Unfortunately, he was discovered by the devil and turned into a yak by magic. However, the brave yak prince waded through the mountains and rivers, insisted on bringing the barley seeds to the Tibetans, and only then has the barley grown all over the plateau today, enabling all living beings to survive.
为怀念王子，藏民以牦牛为崇拜的图腾，把青稞奉为神物，每到播种季节，藏区都举行“牛神之舞”活动，祝福来年青稞丰收，幸福吉祥。
To commemorate the prince, Tibetans worship the totem with yak, viewed hulless barley as a fetish. Every time at the sowing season, the Tibetans will hold the "Bull God Dance" to pray for a good harvest and happiness for next year.
至今，青稞已经在雪域高原上种植了3500年历史，青稞做成的糍粑，面粉成了藏民的主要粮食。甘美醇厚的青稞酒在这片神奇的高原上留下了永久的芳香。
Today, there are already 3500 years of history to cultivate barley on the snowy plateau. The flour made from hulless barley has become the main food of Tibetans. And the luscious and mellow barley wine has left a permanent fragrance on this magical plateau.
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杨云的作品 Yang Yun's Works
整理/ Organize：Lisa
编译/Edit & Translate：Cindy & Mary
制作/ Produce：AIPU
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发表于 2020-8-31 15:59
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