这些年，我漫步草地，翻越雪山，朝拜寺庙，走进藏家。亲历了藏民的日常生活：转山、转水、转佛塔构成了他们生命的全部。世世代代在高原上不息地轮回……
These years, I've been walking on the meadows, crossing the snowy mountains, praying in the temples, and visiting Tibetan houses. I experienced the daily life of the Tibetan people: going around the mountains, waters, and Buddhist towers formed everything of their life. Generations after generations, they reincarnated on the plateau...
羊年转水，马年转山是藏区的传统。
Surround the water in the years of the sheep and surround the mountain in the years of the horse are the traditions of the Tibetan region.
我怀着对转水的神往，2013年踏上了去纳木错的行程。
With the fascination to surround the water, I embarked on a trip to Namtso in 2013.
素有天湖之称的纳木错位于藏北高原的东南，坐落在当雄和班戈两县之间，距拉萨240公里的路程，一路美不胜收。
Namtso, known as "Tianhu", is located in the southeast of Changtang between Damxung county and Baingoin County. It is 240km from Lhasa, and the views on the way were gorgeous.
纳木错，我终于来了！
Namtso, I am finally here!
站在海拔5190米的那根拉山口，湖面海拔4800米的纳木错尽收眼底。浩荡的湖水一望无际，深蓝色的湖水波涛涌动，磅礴的气势令人震撼不已！念青唐古拉山脉依偎在湖畔，7000多米高的主峰刺破云天，矗立在金灿灿的霞光里，湖山相映，使纳木错愈显神秘……
Standing at the Nagenla Pass at an altitude of 5,190 meters, the lake which is 4,800 meters above sea level shows its full view. The mighty lake is endless, the deep blue lake is surging, and the majestic momentum is shocking! The Nyenchen Tanglha Mountains is nestled by the lake. The main peak of more than 7,000 meters pierces the sky and stands in the golden glow. The lake and mountains reflect each other, making Namtso more mysterious...
超高的的海拔是一次真正的考验：当我一只脚落在纳木错湖地的那一刹那，一种漂浮恍然，呼吸加快的感觉骤然袭来……还好，几分钟后即便消失。但同行的道友却没有这么幸运，大都脸色苍白，喘着粗气，不敢动弹，只得重新回到车上罩上氧气呼吸，算是与纳木错见了一面。
The super-high altitude is a real test: the moment I landed on Namtso Lake with my foot, a feeling of floating and shortness of breathing suddenly came...Fortunately, the symptom disappeared after a few minutes. But most of the fellow Buddhists were not so lucky. Most of them looked pale, breathed hard, and did not dare to move, so they had to return to the car to breathe in oxygen, which was at least regarded as a visit to Namtso.
就算不是羊年，转湖的信众依然络绎不绝。
Even if it is not a year of sheep, there are still many believers at the lake.
对面一群风尘仆仆的中年男女迎面走来，男人们一脸黝黑，背负行装。女人们都裹着厚厚的头巾，露出双眼，不停地摇转着手中的转经筒，轻声的祈福，时而把随身携带的贡品抛入湖中。
On the opposite side, a group of dusty middle-aged men and women came forward. The men's faces were tanned, carrying their belongings. The women were wrapped in thick scarfs, only the eyes were exposed. While they swing the prayer wheel and blessing, they tossed tributes into the lake.
我特意与他们同行一程，知道他们已绕湖行走数日，再有几天，这条长达300余公里的天湖朝拜就将圆满。这些天，他们一路风餐露宿，用湖水拌着糍粑度日，不觉艰辛，心中装着佛托。
I deliberately walked with them, knowing that they have been walking around the lake for several days, and in another few days, this 300-kilometer-long Tianhu pilgrimage will be complete. These days, they have been eating and sleeping outdoors with mixed glutinous rice cakes with lake water. They did not feel the hardships, but with Buddhism in their hearts.
一对年迈的老人步履艰难地在湖边行走，老汉一条腿残疾，扶着拐杖，被老伴搀扶向前挪动。
An old couple walked along the lake difficultly, the old man has one disabled leg, supported by a crutch and his wife.
我默默跟随在他们身后一起转湖，凝视着这对虔诚的老人，耳边响起了藏族女歌手降央卓玛吟唱六世班禅的诗句：
那一世转山转水转佛塔，
不为来世只为途中与你相见，
那一瞬我已飞，
飞成仙，
不为来世只为你，
喜乐平安。
I followed them quietly to surround the lake. When staring at this pious old couple, the poem of 6th Panchen Lama sang by the Tibetan female singer Jamyang Dolma seemed to linger by my ears:
That life I surrounded the mountains and rivers and the Buddhist towers
Not for the afterlife, but just to meet you on the way,
I was flying in that instant,
Flying into a fairy,
Not for the afterlife, just for you,
Joy and peace.
杨云作品 Yang Yun's Works
整理/ Organize：Lisa
编译/Edit & Translate：Cindy & Mary
制作/ Produce：AIPU
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发表于 2020-10-12 11:51
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