杨云：藏地画谈——十万长头

aipu

画家 杨云 Painter Yang Yun

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在西藏有一首被世代广为传唱的古老民歌：

黑色的大地是我用身体量过来的，

白色的云彩是我用手指数过来的。

陡峭的山崖我像爬梯子一样攀上，

平坦的草原我像读书一样掀过。

There is an ancient folk song in Tibet that has been sung for generations:

The black earth is measured by my body,

The white clouds came from my finger.

I climbed the steep cliff like a ladder,

I cross the flat grassland like reading a book.

民歌第一句就真情地诉说了藏民一生最为神圣的佛事——磕长头。据说，信众们终其一生会磕得超过十万次之多的长头，这是具有何等巨大的坚韧，才能完成如此的壮举啊！

The first sentence of the folk song truly tells the most sacred Buddhist event of Tibetans in their lives-long grovel. It is said that believers will knock their heads more than one hundred thousand times in their lives. What tremendous perseverance is this to accomplish such a feat!

于凡人看来，这种不可思议的佛事，近乎残酷悲壮。磕者往往身着护膝，手套木板，直立闭目，口中吟唱：“啊、嘛、呢、叭、咪、哞”六字真经，双手合十，依次用指尖碰触头顶、鼻尖和下巴。双腿下跪，双手触地向前划出一道弧线。全身伏地，尔后站立前行三步，再无休止的重复，用等身的长度丈量通往拉萨大昭寺的距离。

People often wear knee pads, glove on wooden boards, stand upright, close their eyes, and chant: "Ah, ma, ni, ba, mi, moo" (Six-syllabled Sanskrit), hands together, and touch the top of the head, nose, and chin with the fingertips in turn. Kneel down with the legs and draw an arc forward with the hands on the ground. Lay all the way to the ground, then walk three steps forward, and repeat endlessly, using the length of the body to measure the distance to the Jokhang Temple in Lhasa.

六世达赖喇嘛仓央嘉措大师曾有诗句，对磕长头做了最好的诠释。“那一年，磕长头匍匐在山路，不为觐见只为贴着你的温暖”。

Master Tsangyang Gyatso, the sixth Dalai Lama, once wrote a verse that best explained head knocking. "That year, I crowed my head and crawled on the mountain road, not for seeing you, just for your warmth."

为了贴着佛陀的温暖，无论身在何处的信众，他们尘土覆面，积年累月向西藏拉萨大昭寺长跪，以至无数的老人、小孩、孕妇把生命留在了条条朝圣的路上。大昭寺释迦牟尼殿前矗立着一根钉满“人牙”的立柱。那是死者的灵魂，以示他们的超度。

In order to stay close to the warmth of the Buddha, no matter where they are, they are covered in dust and knelt down to the Jokhang Temple in Lhasa, Tibet. Countless elderly, children, and pregnant women have left their lives on the road of pilgrimage. In front of the Shakyamuni Hall of the Jokhang Temple stands a column nailed with "human teeth". That is the soul of the dead, to show their transcendence.

2013年春夏之交，在西藏林芝通往拉萨的路上，偶遇几队磕着长头从四川甘孜徒步向拉萨朝拜的信众。一辆板车，一部破旧的拖拉机载着人们全部的生活家当。从老者到几岁的儿童都穿着用厚实的汽车轮胎自制的护身长围裙和套在双手的木质护手板。

At the turn of the spring and summer of 2013, on the way from Nyingchi, Tibet to Lhasa, I encountered several groups of believers who grovel from Ganzi, Sichuan on foot to Lhasa. A pallet truck and a dilapidated tractor carried everyone's belongings. From the elderly to few years old children all wore long aprons made from thick car tires and wooden handguards that protect their hands.

他们从四川甘孜走来，历时数月，一路风餐露宿，三步一磕首，伏身向大地，从不放弃一个该磕的长头。哪怕脚下冰雪覆地，积水泥泞。一路走来，他们历经饥饿和疾病，严寒与酷暑，却初心不改，顶礼向大昭寺朝拜。

They came from Ganzi, Sichuan, spending months on the path. Every three steps, they grovel, never giving up any necessary bow, even if the road is covered with ice and snow on the ground, or filled with muds. Along the way, they experienced hunger and disease, severe cold and scorching heat, but did not change their original intentions and bowed to the Jokhang Temple.

当他们小憩之际，我怀着崇敬之情与他们席地而坐，注目交谈。他们黝黑的脸上坚定的眼神显得尤为明亮，额头叩地留下的“厚茧”分外突出。满身尘土，衣衫破旧，放在身边的护手板已被消磨大半。但他们却面带微笑极为友善。

When they took a rest, I sat on the floor with them in reverence and talked with attention. The firm eyes on their dark faces are particularly bright, and the "thick calluses" left on their foreheads stand out. Dust covered, clothes are worn out, and most of the handguard beside them has been worn away. But they are extremely friendly with smiles on the faces.

我不解的向他们询问：何以要冒如此生死，以命相许地几千公里的徒步朝拜？得到的只是微笑……

I curiously asked them: why at the expense of life, would you travel thousands of kilometers by foot to worship? The answer I got is just a smile.

分手时我与夫人掏尽兜里的零花钱以表达敬重之心，希望他们买些食品补充，几经相劝，他们才双手合十，在一番扎西德勒的祝福声中收下。

When we separate, my wife and I drew out all the pocket money in our pockets to show our respect and hoped that they would buy some food supplements. After several persuasion, they finally put their hands together and accepted it in the blessing of Tashi Delek.

就在汽车即将离去的那一刹那，我似乎明白：他们每一个伏地长扣，如同一次拨转的经轮，那是对心中信仰的加持，是为亲贴释迦牟尼的温暖。

At the moment when the car was about to leave, I seemed to understand: Every time they bowed is like turning the prayer wheel, it is the blessing of the faith in the heart for the warmth of Sakyamuni.

回过头，我见坐在身后的夫人已是泪流满面，泣不成声……

When I turned my head back, I saw the tears streaming down my wife's face, she cries quietly.

杨云作品 Yang Yun's Works

艺术顾问/Art  Consultant  刘树春 Lawrence

整理/ Organize：Lisa

编译/Edit & Translate：Cindy & Mary

制作/ Produce：AIPU